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Visit to the Resort

I don’t know.  My computer was out for a while.  Same shit different day.

But you asked for it, so here I recall Monday’s activity.

Issis and I had a coffee while Ella slumbered.  Then another one.  We just stood on the deck admiring the view.  So tranquil and quiet a breaking dawn.   An hour later Ella appeared.   Issis fixed a quick breakfast and we headed down to the boat.

With plenty of gas there was no need to go to town, so we headed east to the cut and south.  “Where are we going?”  “Wherever my spirit moves me.” Hell, I didn’t know.

Oh yeah, Issis wanted to see Haciena del Toro.  Off to Dolphin Bay.  Before we got there we ran into five.  Actually we didn’t hit any, but five surfaced right near the skiff.  I slowed down to idle, primarily to avoid injury to the dolphins with a side benefit of extending our viewing time.  The dolphins headed off, we proceeded on course.

It amazes me how few people notice the wandering course I take. You have to know the waters. Rocks and sand bars and coral can be in places where they are disclosed by water color and in still water the telltale disturbances don’t exist.  Around a shoal into an opening, left, right, past a house.  Looks like I am heading into the mangroves.  A narrow, shallow cut through the mangroves, barely wider than the boat never fails to satisfy.  Right, left, an arc, right, swing left, between some sticks that marked the opening to a channel.  Down a canal to a lagoon. We docked.  “All right, you are now crew,  at least learn use a cleat.”

We explored the property which is giving me so much grief. It’s beautiful, but a pain in the ass.  Up to the bar to take in the view.  Over to the house.  I took a hanging chair, Issis another and we just hung out at soaked in the breeze and view.  Issis was overwhelmed by the potential of the place.

I was annoyed that the person that was to have started on Monday to work and guard the place obviously never showed.  We boated around trying to find his house, but I had but the vaguest idea where it was, just general descriptions.  We never found the place but the exploring was  fun.

Issis wanted to go back to where she was staying. She had no personal effects and another day in the same clothes was a bit much for her.   So, we headed out to Bastimentos and I dropped off at the last dock in Old Bank where she would trek for a while through the jungle to the organic farm she was working at.  Gotta love a woman who knows all sorts of exotic food plants, knows how to grow them and cook them.  Sure doesn’t hurt if she looks stunning in a bikini.

Ella went off and procured the ingredients for a typical Chinese meal and cooked up five or six dishes.  It was nothing like anything I have ever had in a  Chinese restaurant. Not surprising.

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Issis and Ella

“Jim, a girl is looking for you.”  “Who?”  “She didn’t say.”

Who knows. Be diligent.  I am not that difficult to find. It’s a small town and I am hardly a wallflower.
An hour later a redhead approached me. “Jim?”  “Yup.”
Issis was from Brazil. She just oozed the famous sexuality of the country.  
“I’m bored, let’s go have an adventure!”  “Where are we going?”  “Part of the adventure is the unknown.  Put your trust in me and you won’t be disappointed.”
First, a stretch of open water.  Her ass was pounding on the seat.  “Do you want a seat cushion?”  “No, I have a ‘boom-boom butt.'” Indeed, she does.
I helped her aboard the skiff.  We headed out to Bahia Honda and pulled up to a dock.  Two manic dogs ran down a flight of stairs and started licking me furiously.   “Is that your house?”  “Yup.” I scratched my puppies and we headed out to the end of the bay and beyond.
If one knows where one is going a small brackish river is readily located.  As it makes a quick bend after entry it is near invisible from any distance to the unknowing.  Ahh, it’s a wonderous place.  Presently a Ngobe Indian paddled up behind us while we putted up the river. We reached the dock for a small community that lives in the jungle, chatted briefly with the Indian and headed back into the sunset.
“Jim, a girl is looking for you.”  “She’s right here.” “No, another one.”
Ella. From China.  The three of us sat down.  Mel joined us.  Then Jen.  I saw a friend, “Hey, Joe, we are about to stuff our faces with fresh yellowfin sashimi.” Six of us troughed out.
Ella had just arrived in town and had her backpack.  Issis was living here. It was time to go home.  “Anybody want to stay at my place?”  Ella asked, “How far is it to your house?”  “Six miles.”  “Wow, do you have a car?” “Nope.  Doesn’t matter, I live on another island.” “Can we walk there?” “???????? WTF?”
 Off to the store to get something for breakfast.  Issis and I walked some past some local ne’erdowells.  “Jim, you shure gotta fine one tonight!'”  She’s from Brazil and took it in strut.
Issis and Ella and I said our goodbyes and headed out.  “You’re in luck girl, I have a new toothbrush.” Issis went in and brushed her teeth then Ella went into the shower and somehow managed to unscrew the valve stem completely and didn’t notify me until she was done taking a shower with water pouring into and out of the wall. The floor in the guest bedroom had a pool of water.   I shut off the pump and threaded the stem back in.  Damn it.
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Weekend with Mel

It’s been what? More than a week?  I haven’t been accomplishing much.  Too frustrated to continue without a break, I took a break.

Starfish Beach

Chris, Alejandra, Melissa, Jennifer and I took a panga to Starfish Beach and had a campfire under the stars and grilled chicken.  Jen managed to step on a hot coal and get a third degree burn on her foot.  Things went downhill from there.  By the end of the night I was worn out.   
“Hey, Mel, are you ready to spend the weekend with me?”
When we returned, she went to her room and grabbed her stuff.  We headed home.  Sweet peace.

Weekend


View Tooling Around in a larger map

Whatever we did on Saturday is lost.  I have no idea.  I think it rained and we just hung out at the house.  At five I laid down for a nap and awoke 13 hours later, at dawn.

Sunday, the weather was clear.  Off for adventure. We had plenty of gas, so we just headed east, down through 
the cut between my island and Bastimentos, headed South to the of end the island and visited Coral Key or Crawl Cay.  Northeast to the Southeastern point of the island, up a river to Salt Creek, a Ngobe Indian community, over to a beach, back on the boat  to one of the Zapatillas, pristine little islands surrounded by beach.

I beached the skiff, but the water kept washing over the stern.  Back into the water, I tied off to a mooring buoy on the leeward side and we swam in the clear blue water for a couple of hours.

We continued past the last island in the archipeligo and arrived at Playa Verde.  This Ngobe community in the Ngobe-Bugle Comarca is the real deal.  We were greeted at the beach by a throng.  Mel was quite impressed.  “Donde este Eta?” Eta is the Ngobe name for the Peace Corp worker that resides there, his real name is Evan, maybe Ian.


The seas were calm. The boat was lightly loaded.  Alright, let’s check out Kusapin.  What girl doesn’t like cool photos of herself?   I pulled up to a rock, asked her to give me her camera, and instructed her to get out of the boat.  I pulled away a bit and took a picture.  The only copy I have has been photoshopped.  The water is brilliant blue in reality

Around the point, unprotected from a hundred miles of fetch the waves no longer insignificant, five feet or so, but gentle rollers.  I spotted the entry to Kusapin but couldn’t figure out  how to get to shore through all the coral.  A water taxi was taking a severely serpentine path.  I tilted the outboard a couple of of notches, most of the the thrust was vertical, the orientation of the prop and the skeg, in conjunction with idling speed and I hoped to get to shore without incident.  We tied off to a pier and went in search of a restaurant. We ordered pollo guisado (chicken in gravy) and waited.  And waited.  And waited.  One of the women that worked in the restaurant left and returned with an ice cream.  Mel went out and fetched a couple, which had been dispensed in tiny plastic cups.  Friggin’ awesome.  am sure it was made with condensed milk.

We waited some more.  An hour and a half had elapsed.  Forget it.  I paid the bill.  I was charged for the chicken we never received.  A couple of waters and a piece of banana bread came to about $7.

Time to go.  There was supposed to be some kind of channel.  Hmmm.  I followed the shoreline towards a house and gingerly made my way out there.  As advised by all ashore it was “Totalmente coral”.  Watching the water I made my way through the deepest water I could find.  Then I turned left.  To my left was coral, ahead rocks, to the right a five foot breaking wave threatened the boat.  I had no choice but to try to outrun it. With just enough gas I positioned myself just ahead of the break, more happenstance than planning the wave approached my beam on quarter and we surfed out between the rocks on the leading edge of the wave.  It was butthole puckering.

The rest of the long return trip was made without stops, a long boat ride.

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Marita

I woke up, to a gentle rocking. Oh yeah,  I slept on Marita last night.  Not enough gas for the skiff to make a round trip.   Plenty of food and water for the dogs at home.

C’mon Chris, you have a charter, let’s clean this dump up.

We moved shit off the back deck, out of the salon, from the cabins, from the pilot house.   Hoses, clamps, pumps, electrical fittings, tools, miscellany.  I emptied a dozen overflowing ash trays.   We took a boatload of shit to the battlestar, a retired naval vessel Chris had acquired for $1.  Another trip, more shit.   I emptied drawer after drawer, folded wrinkled bits of paper, crayons, colored pencils, water colors and stuffed this collection of little Noah’s doodlings into a plastic bag.   Hundreds of keys that would never enter a lock again, candles, ancient medications, drawer after drawer of crap.

The pilot house upper deck as covered in solid black hardened mold.   Some muriatic acid turned it red.   Straight 3.5% bleach and scrubbing got it clean.  Now to get another 30 gallons of bleach.  We took five gallons of diesel off the battlestar.   Then we couldn’t start the generator because the batteries are dead.   I took my charger ashore and intended to bring a cable so I could run two in series and rehabilitate a couple of batteries that I have to run in series for my charger.   Shit, left the cable on Alejandra’s panga.

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C’mon Jessica

Sure, you want to go girl?   Come aboard.   Off to town.   I walked my pooch around, socializing her with people and trying to socialize her with other dogs and teach her to heel.

About two Jen and Mel were ready to go snorkeling.  About time.   Definitely working on Panama time.  Off to Old Bank, we walked most of the way to Wizard Beach, then back to the marina to get my snorkel gear out of my boat.  Out to Hospital Point.  

Ahh, the masks are brand new.   Well, I have some toothpaste.  I never know when I am going to spend the night somewhere other than my house.   I scrubbed the silicone off the inside of the lenses, spit on the lenses, rinsed them in water and sent them out.   Bobbing in the waves, I took the boat for a quick spin to pull the plug and drain the water that had accumulated over the stern in the short time I was idling.  This little skiff is definitely going to see bottom some day.

I returned.  Where the hell is Mel?  I picked up Jen and went back to a tour boat that was moored at a buoy.  There she is aboard the tour boat.  Not quite the andventurer that Jen is.  Well, the water should be calmer at my house.   Mel saw a jellyfish and immediately wanted out of the water.  Jen couldn’t give a rat’s ass.  

Off to the end of the bay and up a small river toward the bat cave.  Only got stuck a couple of times.  Sunken logs everywhere.  Back to town.   Back to the house.  Jessica crawled between my legs, scared of all of the pounding that was compressing my vertebrae.

This skiff barely burns gas but it is not much of a boat.  Gotta go, it’s probably sinking right now.

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Another One of Those Days Begins

Last night I knew I was cutting things close.  Not much gas in the skiff.  Maybe I can make it home and back to town, not likely.

This morning I grabbed a few things and stuffed them in my backpack.  The dogs knew that meant I was heading out.   No working computer at home, that’s another story.  The phones won’t take a charge either.  Two phones, five batteries, five battery chargers.  What kind of Bermuda Triangle of electronics have I entered?

New moon low tide.  I pulled the lightweight skiff out of muck.  I had pulled her close to shore to prevent her from sinking in case in rained.   Although Saturday I had improvised a bilge pump arrangement it was really sketch.  Purchasing a bilge pump, a float switch, battery connectors, a section of hose, a through hull fitting, a wire nut, some screws. a stainless steel push plate for a door,  some hose clamps and some liquid dialectric.   I bolted the switch and the pump to the plate, wired up the switch, put on the terminals and returned to hook it up to my boat.   It was rainining hard.  Mel was bailing the skiff, good thing else it would have found bottom.

In any event, it was time to secure this bilge pump, clean up the wiring, put in the through hull fitting in place, secure the wiring in a tube, effect a better installation of the battery wires, hook up the motor to charge the battery while underway and then tend to my scheduled activities, of foremost priority was getting a new foot for the outboard on my panga.

Off to town then.  |Well, partway.   Halfway between Carenero and Colon I exhausted the gas.  Soon a water taxi towed me the mile to the gas dock.   I filled up the tank and pulled repeatedly.   Soon the knot pulled right through the rubber pull handle.   I had no washer aboard.  I pumped the primer bulb repeatedly, wrapped the cord around the pull handle and pulled and pulled and pulled.  I popped the cowling and grabbed a loose cable that functioned as the choke control while trying to steady the motor with a second hand and pull with a third.   As I was doing this Victor, the attendant walked over.   During my thrashing the discharge hose was knocked into the boat and the drain plug was pulled loose by a security chain.  I was sinking.   I put the plug back in, better be sure to get another today and a spare, despite having no place to store any tools, spare hoses, hose clamps, lubricant, wrenches, screwdrivers, cable ties, wire, duct tape and other items I always carry on my panga.

|It finally started and I made it to town.  “Jim, can I talk with you for a minute?”  What now?  Need money?  Mom in the hospital?   Oh, you want me to repair your computer.   Shit, it’s not like I don’t have a huge backlog of my own stuff to take care of.

I am getting worn out.  I need a break.

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“Sailing”

“C’mon, Jim, we are going to Starfish Beach, you wanna come along?”  

“Sure, which boat?”

“Carlos’s”.

“Meetcha there.”

“Hey girls, let’s go to the beach.”  

“OK”

We met on Isla Carenero.   The boat owner, far cry from any sort of Captain, a 55 year old Uraguan, Mauricio a white haired, white bearded Argentinian Santa Claus who spent 16 years hitchhiking and sleeping under bridges, 45 year old Belgian Chris, 30 something year old Alejandra, hailing from Spain, 30 something Nadia from Argentina, 24 year old Melissa (Mel) from Thailand and 24 year old Jennifer from Belgium and I boarded the boat.  I tied my skiff behind her.

We motored slowly in the thrice sunk hull.  It never fully sank, but water rose over the tops of the counters in the galley.   Through hull fittings, bud, you have to watch this stuff.

At Starfish Beach Nadia wanted me to take her to bird Island.   Mel and Jen wanted to go.  Mauricio wanted to come. I don’t know whether he was more strongly motivated by never having seen these rocks that jut up out of the open water with near vertical cliffs and opening straight though that have been eroded by the pounding waves or the fact that I was taking every single woman with me.

Five aboard a 15 foot skiff powered by a 15 HP outboard.   Maybe a foot of freeboard.  Not a life jacket, fire extinguisher, flare, whistle, or anchor.   Bocas perfect.   Around the point and into the swells.   Boats flip over out there all the time.   It’s June, just exercise caution and don’t let the engine fail me.

Struggling uphill, speeding downhill, pointing into the swells.  Forty minutes later we made it.  Everyone aboard was enraptured.   I idled in the calmer waters leeward, they took pictures then we headed back.   Nadia, admitted that she had been scared shitless.  

We motored back.  Carlos has never put this boat under sail.  Nor can he dock it, nor tie a knot, he doesn’t even know how to wrap a cleat.  I showed the girls how to tie an overhand knot, a square knot, a bowline, a clovehitch, a sheet bend, a figure eight knot and an overhand knot, just the simplest most often useful knots.

Chris took the helm and docked the boats while Alejandra and I handled the lines.   I headed home, suspicious of the amount of gas I had.  Certainly enough to get home, questionable on making the return.

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Rainy Day

Too much rain to convince anybody to go anywhere. Shit, this little skiff is going to sink soon. A stainless steel push plate for a door, some liquid water tight seal, a bilge pump, a hose, a couple of hose clamps, a through hull fitting, some battery terminals. The haphazard collection was placed in the back of the little skiff afixed beneath a battery sure to get jostled. This thing needs to get glassed in.

Still waiting on a lower unit for the panga. Checking on getting the floor ripped out and replace with slats of treated pine. I am falling behind on everything.

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Cruising

I entered the muck behind my skiff and pushed it into water deep enough that it would float.  It doesn’t take much.  I bailed for twenty minutes and got on the boat, dripping muck everywhere.

Off to Casa Verde, what else do we need?   Ten bags of ice, a couple of blocks, some superglue, gas.
We hooked up the stereo on the trimaran and I headed back for the girls.  We waited a while, nobody is ever on time in Panama.   This time, it was us.  By the time we got to the trimaran all the tourists were aboard.  This was some group from Alberta.   I was later to find out that they pay $100 a day for the tour.  For this they get $25 accommodations, sleeping four to a room and bus transport.  They provide their own meals and tours are extra.   $75 per person per day for god knows what.   A bus ride from Panama City is $33.  That was four days ago.  They stayed on Carenero, a haven for sand flies and these people were pretty well eaten up.
I grabbed a drill, a funnel, a bottle of rum and a box of straws and the girls offered to help.  Here, drill two holes.  Put a straw in one, have the person drink some of the coconut water and then put the funnel in the other hole and pour in some rum.   This was my creation, although, there being nothing new under the sun I have no doubt this was independently invented many times.
We sailed out to the first stop by which time people had consumed immoderate amounts of alchohol.  They were Canadians, lest you forget.   I took the girls off to see a friend in the jungle.   They thought it was awesome and didn’t want to leave.  We can come back anytime, you will be here another five weeks.  Off to my place for a few minutes and back to the boat.
They started pulling each others swim suits off and dancing in the buff.  Jen looked at me, raised a blonde eyebrow and said, “Really?”  Hey, it’s Bocas.
A few more stops and then there was a request for some crazy punch made of ginger ale, vodka, pineapple and energy drinks.  It tasted like gasoline.   On the way back, we passed three generations paddling a panga.  I don’t know what was wrong with the engine.  Surely one of them must have a phone and a friend to call.  I tied them off and pulled them around the point, stopped at the trimaran, dropped off the girls and supplies and pulled them home.   Lots of people on the deck.  Lots of boats.  What the hell?   Who knows?  The guy thanked me and asked how much he owed me.  “Just help out some other stranded boater.  You spend a lot of time on the water, you’ll be stranded eventually.”
Back to the boat.  With all of the seriously inebriated people aboard only one was an asshole.   “More ice bitch, dig deep.”  Charming.   Back to town, I dropped the girls off.  We exchanged phone numbers, “friended” each other on Facebook.  “Thanks, Jim, you are really cool.  That was an awesome day.”  Hugs and kisses.  “Later girls.”  “Absolutely.”
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Not Exactly Productive

I need a second boat.   It’s not an option when leaving your house requires a boat.  My 23′ panga needs a lower unit on the outboard.   It also needs to lose a lot of weight.   The wood flooring substrate has been thoroughly soaked four times.  That’s 3/4″ of heavy plywood, water soaked and covered with a thick layer of fiberglass.   

On Tuesday we towed the boat over to a guy who started working on it last December.   Just cut the whole floor out and replace it with slats of treated lumber.   This makes it easier to inspect hull integrity and wiring.  It should also result in the loss of about 600 pounds.   It’s been there two days, nothing has been done to her.
I had taken the outboard off the bathtub I was driving around and recruited I guy I had met to help me carry it to a mechanic’s house.   Couldn’t expect the mechanic to lift anything.   I placed it into a water filled plastic barrel, cleaned off the engine.  He pulled the flywheel cover and tried to start it.  He got the pull rope caught under the flywheel.  Using a screwdriver and needle nose pliers I worked the rope out and wrapped it and started her up.  He ran it for an hour.  No sign of oil leakage.   
I stopped for lunch at a fast and cheap restaurant and ran into a woman I know.  She wants to film wildlife, including snakes.   Well, the guy who is supposed to be working on my boat is one crazy bastard who will happily catch large highly venomous snakes.  You want him to milk venom out of one?  I am sure he will.  Ok, let’s go get the outboard.  I asked the mechanic to help me carry down the street and onto the dock. He assured me that it was easier for one person to carry than it was for two.  Fine, then I’ll carry the gas tank.  He would have none of it.   So I recruited Matt, who was about to go out with me and we carried the motor while I reinstalled it.   I am telling you, this guy is the laziest mechanic ever.
I took the woman and her friend over to meet the crazy guy and just one look at him at she thought he was perfect.   After that I took to Old Bank where we tried to get with Bruce, who runs an organic farm.  No answer.  I called a girl who is staying there. She was off to town.   All right, I took them for a “meet the neighbors” tour around Bahia Honda, Indians, gringos, and a black Panamanian who lives in a really cool house hidden in the jungle.   Back to town, dinner and home.  Shit, I forgot my backpack. Back to town, retrieved it from the restaurant.  Back home.  I pulled the up to the dock, swung it around and pulled it back on a rope very close to shore.
In the morning the tide was low and she was sitting high, dry on the bottom and filled with water from the morning’s rain.   I bailed her out, got into the muck and lifted the stern and pushed her into the deeper water.   Back up to the house, shower, change clothes and off to town.   Next to no oil had been used in 36 miles.   I guess I had gotten the boat almost out of oil.  The guy I got her from is pretty meticulous, I was certain that he would have had his workers check.  Never assume anything.
Now if only one of my phones would charge up.  One seems to be taking a charge.  I shall see.  I don’t know how long it will take until I can power it up.  I am supposed to be smoking some chicken for a group of 28 tomorrow.  Where is the guy with my smoker?