I have shunned she who comforted me most. I have come to doubt all that I have held as true, I stand alone, without beliefs.
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I have shunned she who comforted me most. I have come to doubt all that I have held as true, I stand alone, without beliefs.
Four overfed gringos left Bocas del Toro and set off for Pixvae, “a named place in Veraguas, Panama” also described as “a populated place near Coiba National Park, in Verguas, Panama” in pursuit of fish.
Very shortly after entering the water taxi service I was approached by an elderly Panamanian, “Are you going to Alimirante my good friend?” Here we go. If somebody in Panama calls you a good friend, it is like an email from a Nigerian asking for help in giving you large sums of cash. There are only two stops on this shuttle and at either terminal the other is assured. I am in Bocas, the other terminal is … Almirante. “No I am going to Limon, this boat goes to Limon, right?” After several minutes of bullshit he finally asks for money, I pointed at Walter, “Walter is very rich, he likes to give money to people, please talk with Walter.” Chester got a shit eating grin on his face.
The 20 minute boat ride was uneventful. A Panamanian greeted Chester by name and grabbed Chester’s bag and mine. I wanted to carry my bag.
A guest at my hostel got robbed at Aqua Lounge, his day pack was stolen. While skinny dipping in the bay with a hottie he met, his clothes were stolen, but his money belt fell in the bay. Aqua Lounge has no way to get to the island that I know of so these little bastards must have hopped the fence.
Some weasel stole a bike from in front of this place the day before I got here. I’m opening up the fences and going to have a dog on the back deck, now how do I stop somebody from poisoning it?
I don’t have the benefit of writing after the fact. Paul Theroux and his ilk could publish their books after having left the continent. My story participants could knock on my door. The internet is real time and I am shocked at how many people read this drivel.
Here are my notes from my Pixvie trip, I’ll flesh them out later.
Almirante, village trip, drinks on the sewer, indian girls delivery, louis and the chinese restaurant, silence on the disposition of the indian girls.
Professor’s house.
No electricity, lights out.
Awakened 5:00
6:50 hit the water (what a bunch of jagoffs)
7:00 roosterfish
7:10 dolphins
7:25 fish on
cobalt blue water
816 people
200 work for the italian
166 in the elementary school
78 in junior high
no high school
Jorge owns the bouy
Road will reach Caledonia in 2011
Chester was honorary president of the carnival
Pargo, Salmon, Ensalada
—————
22-2
Up at 5
Hit water at 6:15
Had to go back for lures and gas, cigars
7:10 rod to walter
7:15 fish o
7:45 jim
8:08 steve big pargo
8:20 jim salmon
“Fish on, Coksuka”
8:25 chester rod to Steve, “fish on”
9:45 bonito, Jim Lieing
Chester Salmon
Green, to purple to milky blue mountains
all salmon gravid
11:00 illegible
11:30 eone
12:30 up hill
3:25 – 3:50 3:50 at river
200 meters accross mangrove
4:07 hill will palm
Snook and Corvina
Crab eating oons
4:20 turn around 15 more minutes to road
5:20 back
can’t raise cattle, sell for nothing
7:00 bar closed, evicted from kitchin
off tune singing
rain up at 6:00
dark show
no trace of rain
howler monkies
birds of many species chirped, twitter, illegible, warbled, whistled, parrots flew by.
great mango treets
cree cree cree
small waves surf sound
cofee coki 25 illegible water boiling
naked chicken with a patch of feathers
20′ shark in bay
5 pound octopus on head
whitefin shark babies
whales circling cayucas
giant grouper eats mans leg
smoke the tuna on pineapple mangrove
black with tiger stripes rapalla
Negro tales
Hostal Hosi
RUC 9-141-54
11:00 head out
Green on west slope dark on east.
12:30 illegible
12:45 bridge
12:55 Sona
Las Lajas
San Felix
Tole
Remedoios
6566-xxxx
Las Lajas & Pan American
4:30 Bus stop
4:45 where is my tilly?
Call Stephen, Chester
Fried Plantain
illegible
5:15 Guy comes and claims my seat they take panamanian stool out of his chair and give him a cushion in the aisle and then we leave.
phone call las lajas garritia viaja gnobe with cell
7:08 pull up first phone no change phone with indian
7:15 I’m the only one at bus stop gas station bar 50 meters bus stop accross street
google earth, christian , fresh squeezed orange juice, mabel
retirementdetective.com soy, sawdust, desicatted cat excrement, hut, picture, hot ass fucking walk, slate sand beach 150 meters until horizon
doug brown
9:00 at bus stop
9:10 on line no ticket
2 panamanians push
Reading The Old Patagonian expres
italian at the italian restaurant, roberto
unreal
nefarious columbian no rent
paid my 2.25
10:220 asked for bus to bocas took bus to changinoula
finished first chapter
evilly bad speakers, must be ripped clear accross the cone playing music that couldn’t be pleasant under the best of circumstances; horns and voices, like paper over a cone.
10:40 move outside window tray of sticky stuff
11:00 lost solo seat
dictionary
1:30 bigass indian next to me.
pull into almirante, cab, taxi, where are you staying? fuck you.
paint, website, wireless
I’m back in Bocas and have a great deal to post and many pictures to crop. I’ll try to catch up a little at a time. So much went on in the last two weeks it will take a while to post. Please be patient.
Thought I’d visit southeastern Chiriqui. Actually I was just following up on a promise to visit a couple that I met in Volcan. I’m really glad I came. Bocas can wait a couple of days.
I’m in Las Lajas, Chiriqui, two thirds of the way from Santiago to David on my way out of Pixvie, Veraguas which has been aptly defined as “a populated place on the Pacific side of Panama.”
Three days in Pixvie will require 8,000 words to come close to describing. I’ll have to wait until I get back to Bocas to articulate a reasonable approximation of the experience.
Rudy, my current host, has convinced me to stay here another day.
I now have the cooling of an electric fan, awesome. This town has electricity, paved roads and even internet. I am so spoiled.
Three of the four horse men arrived unceremoniously via Bocas Marine Tours shuttle as Taxi 25 was still out of operation. We waddeled,shuffled and slogged to our diesel steed and rode it to the crazed Columbian, Louis. Louis answers every question inimitably and evasively. It is difficult to discern whether he fails to comprehend the question or if he is a master of circumlocution and redirection. “I want to see the Bay from the Mountain.” “Do you want to see the gringo mansions?” “No, Louis, I want to see the FAAKING bay from the FAAKING mountain.” “Do you want to see the mansions?” I bang my head on the window. Chester, please, help me out here. “It is too late to call on the fincas, perhaps we should see the mansions.” Fuck me, with a stick, in the ass. Foot soup. Are you kidding me? Ahh shit, I’ll pay for it. Really? Pig Knuckles and salt broth. I have died and gone to hell. Louis, you have lived far too long.
We ascend the hills over Almirante, escaping the putrid, vile, trash laden town and become one with the rain forest. Bananas, cocoa, and mangos all live in harmony, houses are nestled nearly indiscernably in the jungle.
Near the end of the road is an immaculate Gnobe town. Not a piece of litter anywhere. Gnobe towns in general are filthy, with trash smolderong trash strewn everywhere.
The next stop is Walter at Rio Septico a human excrement sludge factory.
We are warmly greeted. This place smells like a toilet. Drinks. I kid you not, a fifth of rum, a cup of ice and a can of coke. We are going to die. Lois makes a phone call. A 20 year old round faced Gnobe shows up, then a spherical Gnobe. “Call my mama!” No way. These girls are not pros? I couldn’t do them for nothing.
The Chinese place was a trip, Louis banged on the tray, “these people are my clients” and he stormed out of the restaurant.
No more internet. Carnival starts tomorrow. Mahem. Catholics are debauched.
I hear the drizzle of the rain
Like a memory it falls
Soft and warm continuing
Tapping on my roof and walls
Wrong Cat. Sail from Ft. Lauderdale to San Blas? Layover in Cuba?
Mackie says I have to move tomorrow, my room is booked for Carnival. Alan wants me to watch his house while he travels to Ecuador and Columbia. Jody and Dean have departed for the Pacific. Mario has left for San Blas and then Cartegena. A bud in Boquete wants me to watch his house while he is back in the states.
I want to run a 40′ cat charter between San Blas and Categena, run a hostel in Volcan, another in Bocas, and an eco-lodge near Almirante. Oh yeah and program on the side.